Loreto Area Part II

On June 16, the morning after the palapa party, the weather forecast called for a day or two of light winds.  We were optimistic that the winds and seas would be calm enough for an extended visit to the open roadstead anchorage off of Loreto.  We sailed the six miles from Isla Coronados back to Loreto, got the boat squared away, and headed into town.  There was much to be accomplished and we stayed quite busy.  That afternoon, Trisha and John from Seychelles got their hair cut at a beauty salon.  We enjoyed cheap and delicious street tacos at a hole in the wall restaurant called Del Rey.  This place is all the rage with the cruisers.  We visited six different tiendas searching for the items on our shopping list.  The best deal in town on beer and tequila was found at Cactus Licores (Liquors).  Trisha unwillingly made multiple visits to the Ferre-Mar, a combination tackle shop and chandlery, where we found replacement bands for the spear gun, fishing lures, and replacement rubber straps for attaching our snorkels to our masks.  On Sunday, we went to the weekly farmers market with Nikki where we bought a flat of thirty eggs and a couple of bags of produce.  Sunday evening we met Hotel California, Just a Minute, Seychelles, and True Companion at Auggies Bar and enjoyed the hamburger special.  We felt very lucky to enjoy two consecutive calm nights at anchor in Loreto.

Thinking we may be pushing our luck at Loreto, we motor-sailed ten miles to the well-protected Ballandra anchorage on Isla Carmen on June 18.  As readers may recall, this is where the dreaded windlass repair project was completed.  Ballandra is a lovely little anchorage where we enjoyed wonderful snorkeling and semi-successful fishing.  The islands are protected and spear guns are not allowed in the water.  The best part of our Ballandra stay, besides getting the windlass fixed and hanging out with Hotel California, was being hailed by Tom and Jeannie on Eagle to join their float party.  We arrived a bit late and the rum was already flowing freely for the attending boats: Camille, Eagle, Nyon, and Timepiece.  It was a fun group of people with a rum bar precariously balancing on a paddleboard.  One hand for the board and one hand for the drink, we all made quick friends and celebrated the miracle of rum.  At the sun went down, more than one partygoer celebrated the miracle of the birthday suit.  A good time was had by all.

On June 24, the windlass was working great and we were ready to make the twenty-six mile passage from Ballandra northwest to San Juanico.  Hotel California had left for Isla Coronados the previous day, breaking the trip into two legs.  When we pulled up the anchor about 0700 and began motor-sailing, Hotel California had a ten mile head start.  As we left the protection of Isla Carmen, a heavy southeast swell made the ride less than comfortable.  About a third of the way through the trip, the wind piped up so we turned off the engine and enjoyed a nice reach the rest of the way.  When we arrived at San Juanico, Hotel California had been anchored for a while.  We were soon tucked in behind them with the southeast swell wrapping around the point making for a rolly anchorage.  We didn’t launch the dinghies and stayed put on our boats.  That night at 0100, the rolling became unbearable and I went on deck to rig the flopper stopper.  This device hangs in the water from the boom and reduces the rolling by fifty percent.  The forecast called for days of south winds meaning that there was no end in sight for the southern swell.  We would need to find a better anchorage.