Hurricane Odile

Hurricane Odile has come and gone and our little fleet of thirteen boats in Puerto Don Juan experienced no damage. We are saddened to hear the daily updates on the Amigo and Sonrisa radio networks about the devastation to the eastern Baja, especially in La Paz, our home base in Mexico. Our thoughts and prayers are with our fellow cruisers who are left dealing with the storm's aftermath.

This is our third straight year making the 350 mile pilgrimage up the Sea of Cortez from La Paz to Bahia de los Angeles (BLA) for "hurricane season." The probability of a storm reaching this far north, especially at hurricane strength, is quite low. In the event a storm does head our direction, we take cover in Puerto Don Juan, the local "hurricane hole." With its narrow dog-legged entrance, Puerto Don Juan offers nearly 360 degrees of protection from waves for thirty or so boats. In a hurricane, the winds can be very uncomfortable but the real danger comes from the big waves.

With Hurricane Odile as with all hurricanes in the eastern Pacific, we began monitoring the storms progress from time of its formation hundreds of miles southeast of Cabo San Lucas. We knew that Odile had made a direct hit on the Cabo area as a category three hurricane. The worst storm ever to hit the Cape region of Baja. After Cabo, La Paz was slammed bringing devastation to the cruisers at anchor. There was at least one death and three people still missing. Thirty boats were either driven up on shore or sunk. Next on the path was Puerto Escondido where several boats got loose and ended up on the beach or in the mangroves, several with significant damage. Two hundred and thirty miles to the northwest of Puerto Escondido, we took refuge in Puerto Don Juan on Sunday, September 14. By the time the storm arrived, there were a total of 13 boats:

Audacious
Ceilidh
Dream Catcher
Dream Ketcher
Del Viento
Harmony
Jade Purl
Lunisea
Maitairoa
Sea Note
Swan
Take Five

who came to Don Juan. On the morning of Tuesday September 16, Odile had been losing strength and it traveled over land and had been downgraded to a tropical storm. At 5:00 am, the storm arrived and the wind began to blow and the rain began to fall. We felt fortunate that we would see Odile during daylight hours, others along the way experienced the storm in the dark. The first couple hours the wind was not too bad, only about 25 knots (a knot is a little longer a mile, for instance, 40 knots of wind = 46 mph) but the rain started coming harder and harder. We've never seen such rain. Torrents of water were cascading down the surrounding hills. The winds built over the next few hours and went to the 30's and then the 40's with gusts to 50 knots. The rain and wind were so hard that we could barely stick our head out of the hatch to look around without getting completely drenched. Derrick had to go up top to fix things a few times - the dinghy on the foredeck tried to take flight, check the anchor and snubber, etc. Each time he came back completely soaked. Overall, we came through fine. We only had the wind for about 6 hours and then it died. We were very fortunate.

In the village of Bahia de los Angeles, the electricity has been out since the storm and roads into and out of the area are not passable. There is no word yet about when power will be restored or the roads repaired. Those of us on boats will be without internet, gas and diesel, and perishable groceries until power is restored and the roads repaired. Most boats have stores of food and plenty of fuel on board. Many have water makers and solar powered battery banks so we will not suffer but merely be inconvenienced. We are very fortunate.

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Bighorn Sheep on Isla Carmen

On our way north we spent much more time in the Loreto area this year and had a chance to enjoy several of the anchorages on Isla Carmen.  One of the fabled attractions on the island is the bighorn sheep.  The sheep were relocated here from the Baja years ago and have done so well that the government sells a limited number of permits for hunting.  Until this year we had only seen the sheep in pictures.

On one of our morning explorations we were hiking to the back of an arroyo (canyon) when we stumbled across one of the sheep’s watering holes.  Judging by the presence of the sheep and many bees, the water must be brackish.  It was suggested that Trisha have a taste to find out, but she was unwilling.

Anyway, as we approached the watering hole we could hear loud movements in the brush.  Next thing you know, we saw several bighorn sheep scrambling up the near vertical wall of the canyon.  It was quite a sight.  We came back for a repeat performance a couple of days later and brought the camera.

We're back! (picture time)

As we begin our third summer in the Northern Sea of Cortez, we hope you enjoy this picture blog showing what we’ve been up to for the last few months.

In the Spring, Trisha made a visit to Buffalo to see her family and it was great to see brother Paul and his family who were soon in the process of moving to Helsinki, Finland.

Back in La Paz, spring has sprung and the birds and the bees were hard at it.  The humming bird nest was a big attraction on a little used fishing boat.  The bees suddenly took up residence in our cockpit one afternoon.  With a little help from the guys at the marina, they moved on the next day.  

An early stop on the way north is one of our favorite destinations: Agua Verde.  We always have a good time there. 

Trisha with a new dog friend, Lola

Derrick with a beach bovine

We spent many nights at Bahia Marquer on Isla Carmen in the Loreto area.  The summer was already heating up and in the water was one of the best places to be.  A big thank you goes to Rick on the sailboat Regardless for taking the snorkeling shots.  Rick is back in Alameda, California for the summer.

Even the turtles were cooling off

For July Fourth, Jake and Sharon, from the sailboat Jake, were gracious enough to give us a ride to Bahia Conception for Geary’s Fourth of July party.  We didn’t plan on attending this year because it is always too damn hot.  This year we enjoyed a round trip ride in an air-conditioned rental and clouds and rain during the party.  Geary noted that after nineteen years of throwing the party this was the first time it rained.  After lunch, Derrick presented Jake with the coveted Green Shovel Award.

The crowd at the big party

Jake accepting his award

We have been buddy boating with our friends Diane and Terry from the sailboat Harmony.  Time to move on!

Harmony underway

Isla San Marcos

July 2013

Even after extending our stay in Bahia Conception after the Fourth of July Party, our northbound progress was still well ahead of schedule.  Other boats attending the Fourth of July party had quickly made their way up to the marina in Santa Rosalia and were taking their time moving on.  We needed somewhere to hang out for a week or so while we waited for space to free up.  Isla San Marcos was pretty much the only choice.

Isla San Marcos - not too shabby as the only choice

We had plenty of company.  Several boats were already anchored in Sweet Pea Cove, the popular anchorage on the northwest corner of Isla San Marcos nearest to the marina.  Rather than squeeze in there, we opted for an anchorage about a mile down the west side of the island that was noted in one of older cruising guides.  When we arrived we found big patch of sand in twenty-seven feet of water at the mouth of an arroyo (canyon) and dropped the hook.  This would be home for the next ten days.

Pangeros water skiing past our boat in the anchorage - this was a first!

Isla San Marcos soon became one of our favorite destinations.  One big attraction was the arroyos.  On the islands we visit in the Sea of Cortez the typical terrain is very rough, often crumbling, and covered with aggressive vegetation sporting sharp spines.  While most overland exploring can be challenging and frequently painful (a cactus spine can go right through the sole of your shoe), arroyos are the exception.  In these canyons, the occasional rain storm produces a torrent of water that washes away the vegetation and leaves a nice gravel path to walk on.  In addition to the easy passage, every turn offers something new to see.

Derrick "rock balancing" during an arroyo hike

One of the finished products

On the southern end of the island there is a gypsum mine and village.  Ships dock near the mine where they are loaded with gypsum.  This activity generates a giant plume of white dust that blows out over the water.  Fortunately, we are far enough away that we get no dust, but we can smell the gypsum when the wind shifts to the south.

Trisha posing on a hill of gypsum rock

A couple of fishing boats from the village drive by regularly.  One day one of the boats stops me as I am returning from a spear fishing outing.  The two fishermen speak no English, but they are obviously quite proud of this red fish they have caught.  I have never seen this sort of red fish before, but they assure me that it is “muy bueno” and would fetch 100 pesos per kilo in town.  I try to turn it down, but they really want me to have this red fish for 50 pesos (they estimate that the fish weighs half a kilo).  So I buy the fish.  When I get back to the boat, Trisha looks it up in our fish book.  Turns out they sold me a pacific snapper, edibility excellent.  And it was.

A delectable fish!

There were thousands of cicadas in the arroyo

Interesting rock formations

We left our mark!

Summer 2013 In the Northern Sea (Picture Time)

A few pictures of our travels this summer in the Northern Sea.

Interabang at anchor in Puerto Don Juan

Waiting out Tropical Storm Ivo in La Mona (Entre Nous in the foreground)

On the hiking trail from Puerto Don Juan to Ensenada el Quemado

The view of Bahia de los Angeles from above La Gringa

The volcano on Isla Coronado from La Gringa

Ensenada el Pescador

Ensenada el Pescador

Dolphin escort into the anchorage at Isla Estanque

Derrick nursing a baby bird that landed in our cockpit during a rain storm

Isla Estanque on a calm morning

We had six whale sharks swimming around our boat in Bahia de las Animas in October.  
This picture was taken without a zoom lens.

Bonita caught while underway soon to become sashimi dinner

Happy!

Rain, rain go away (Trisha's Blog)

We are here in the Northern Sea - currently anchored at Bahia Las Rocas on Isla Coronado in the Bahia de los Angeles area and we have the anchorage all to ourselves. We were in the area to attend the Full Moon party held last Wednesday, August 21st. The party was a big hit and about fifteen boats were in attendance for the floating afternoon party and evening beach potluck.

Most of you think that we are in the dry, hot desert, right? In the past week, we have had two tropical systems dump rain on us. Last week right after the party, Tropical Storm Ivo traveled up the outside of the Baja and although we did not get "hit" by the storm, we had the remnant clouds and some wind and enjoyed a rain shower that somewhat cleaned the boat. There was just one downpour and after the rain, there was dirt puddled in many places where it ran off but just not enough. We would have liked a bit more rain to clean off the boat. Be careful what you wish for: Today, we are experiencing rain all day from the remnants of Tropical Depression Juliette. It has been a steady stream with downpours every hour or so. This is more rain than we've seen in one day since we left the San Francisco Bay on September 2, 2011. The rain is wonderful, don't get me wrong BUT the solar panels don't produce electricity, the hatches and windows need to be closed and everything on the boat feels damp (and is damp). Our cabin temperature is currently 78 degrees which is cool and comfortable compared to the average 90-94 degrees we would experience on a sunny, calm day.

Yesterday, we went on a wonderful hike and Derrick went spear fishing and came back with three fish and an octopus! This is our first octopus aboard Interabang and we had been coached last year by another cruiser on how to prepare it, if and, when we got one. We will be having octopus (pulpo) for dinner.

We are hoping the tropical storms slow down enough soon so that we can venture north from Bahia de los Angeles and the potential protection of Puerto Don Juan. Puerto Don Juan is a "hurricane hole" and is called that because it would provide protection almost 360 degrees from the waves if a larger storm system, tropical storm or even a hurricane were to reach us way up here. But it's time to move on already.

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Mulegé

Traveling north in the Sea of Cortez, we decided to hustle up to Bahia Conception and attend Geary’s Fourth of July party.  Geary is the local weatherman and quite the celebrity amongst the cruising fleet.  Each and every morning he rises early to put together a comprehensive weather forecast for the west coast of Mexico and then broadcasts it at 7:45 A.M. on the Sonrisa Ham Net.  Each and every morning we tune in to his broadcast on our single side band radio while we drink our coffee.

Trisha, Lisa (Gypsy), Unidentified, Kevan (Entre Nous), Sally (Entre Nous),
Neil (Gypsy) and Crit (Jasdip) enjoying the party

Despite Bahia Conception’s notoriously high temperatures in early July, Geary’s annual party in El Burro Cove continues to be a popular event.  This year about thirty boats showed up.  Geary supplies the hotdogs, the shade and arranges for a beer tent (Pacifico this year rather than Tecate, yeah!).  Attending cruisers contribute a potluck dish.  Dan on Dazzler also contributed a cache of fireworks/flares, and the event wrapped up with a dazzling fireworks display.  A good time was had by all.  The next morning boats began to disappear, anxious to escape the heat.

El Burro Cove from above - Site of the party and Geary's palapa.
Interabang is anchored on the left.

This is how we got the picture of El Burro Cove from above.

On July fifth it continued to be hot in Bahia Conception.  The inside of the boat was only getting down to 90 degrees at night.  With the water temperature also hovering in the 90 degree range, going for a swim made one more salty than cool.  Nevertheless, we were ahead of schedule and decided to hang around for a few days before continuing north.  We moved the boat north ten miles to Bahia Santa Domingo near the mouth of the bay where the sea breeze is stronger and more constant.  We were soon confronted by very aggressive bees and both of us came away with stings.  After a couple days of fighting the bees, the heat didn’t seem so bad.  We ventured twelve miles south back into Bahia Conception and anchored at Playa Santa Barbra.  There, we were pretty much captives on the boat.  It seems that someone has bought the land around the anchorage, built a lovely palapa, erected some first class tents, installed an array of private property signs, and secured the area with a couple of Rottweilers and a caretaker.

By now we were getting a little low on provisions and were considering how we might get a ride into Mulegé (moo-la-hay).  Mulegé is the big city in these parts and about a fifteen mile drive north on Highway 1.  After listening to the morning radio networks, we gave Weatherman Geary a call on the VHF to see if he might be making the trip into town any time soon.  Lucky for us Geary was driving that way the next morning and we were welcomed to come along.  We moved the boat to El Burro Cove and anchored in front of Geary’s palapa.  At nine o’clock the next morning we met Geary and his friend Sonya on the beach and climbed into his pick-up truck.  Geary and the women rode in the cab and I rode in the back.  Sitting in the open truck bed with my back against the tailgate, the wind and little bits of sand blasted my face as Geary pushed the truck to 70 MPH on the straight stretches of road.  Understandably, I missed out on the stream of historical tidbits that Geary provided during the drive.  On the upside, the ride in the bed of the truck was like a trip back in time.  The long forgotten sensations took me back to when I was a kid in rural California riding in the back of my father’s truck.  It was a very enjoyable ride.

Trisha and Geary in Mulegé

We soon arrived in historic Mulegé.  This quaint little city got its start with the establishment of Mission Santa Rosalia de Mulegé in 1705 on the banks of Rio Santa Rosalia.  The combination of the river and many nearby springs make this a lush oasis in the middle of the desert.  Water is plentiful and the date palms flourish.  A prison once operated at Mulegé.  With the surrounding desert making escape unlikely, most prisoners were allowed to work in town during the day and return to the prison at night.

View of the river running through Mulegé from the back of a pickup truck

It was a real treat to get to see Mulegé and replenish our supply of groceries and beer.  Trisha and I were grateful for the ride and the tour.  Thanks Geary and Sonya!