Friday, July 26, 2013


Traveling north in the Sea of Cortez, we decided to hustle up to Bahia Conception and attend Geary’s Fourth of July party.  Geary is the local weatherman and quite the celebrity amongst the cruising fleet.  Each and every morning he rises early to put together a comprehensive weather forecast for the west coast of Mexico and then broadcasts it at 7:45 A.M. on the Sonrisa Ham Net.  Each and every morning we tune in to his broadcast on our single side band radio while we drink our coffee.
Trisha, Lisa (Gypsy), Unidentified, Kevan (Entre Nous), Sally (Entre Nous),
Neil (Gypsy) and Crit (Jasdip) enjoying the party
Despite Bahia Conception’s notoriously high temperatures in early July, Geary’s annual party in El Burro Cove continues to be a popular event.  This year about thirty boats showed up.  Geary supplies the hotdogs, the shade and arranges for a beer tent (Pacifico this year rather than Tecate, yeah!).  Attending cruisers contribute a potluck dish.  Dan on Dazzler also contributed a cache of fireworks/flares, and the event wrapped up with a dazzling fireworks display.  A good time was had by all.  The next morning boats began to disappear, anxious to escape the heat.

El Burro Cove from above - Site of the party and Geary's palapa.
Interabang is anchored on the left.
This is how we got the picture of El Burro Cove from above.
On July fifth it continued to be hot in Bahia Conception.  The inside of the boat was only getting down to 90 degrees at night.  With the water temperature also hovering in the 90 degree range, going for a swim made one more salty than cool.  Nevertheless, we were ahead of schedule and decided to hang around for a few days before continuing north.  We moved the boat north ten miles to Bahia Santa Domingo near the mouth of the bay where the sea breeze is stronger and more constant.  We were soon confronted by very aggressive bees and both of us came away with stings.  After a couple days of fighting the bees, the heat didn’t seem so bad.  We ventured twelve miles south back into Bahia Conception and anchored at Playa Santa Barbra.  There, we were pretty much captives on the boat.  It seems that someone has bought the land around the anchorage, built a lovely palapa, erected some first class tents, installed an array of private property signs, and secured the area with a couple of Rottweilers and a caretaker.

By now we were getting a little low on provisions and were considering how we might get a ride into Mulegé (moo-la-hay).  Mulegé is the big city in these parts and about a fifteen mile drive north on Highway 1.  After listening to the morning radio networks, we gave Weatherman Geary a call on the VHF to see if he might be making the trip into town any time soon.  Lucky for us Geary was driving that way the next morning and we were welcomed to come along.  We moved the boat to El Burro Cove and anchored in front of Geary’s palapa.  At nine o’clock the next morning we met Geary and his friend Sonya on the beach and climbed into his pick-up truck.  Geary and the women rode in the cab and I rode in the back.  Sitting in the open truck bed with my back against the tailgate, the wind and little bits of sand blasted my face as Geary pushed the truck to 70 MPH on the straight stretches of road.  Understandably, I missed out on the stream of historical tidbits that Geary provided during the drive.  On the upside, the ride in the bed of the truck was like a trip back in time.  The long forgotten sensations took me back to when I was a kid in rural California riding in the back of my father’s truck.  It was a very enjoyable ride.
Trisha and Geary in Mulegé
We soon arrived in historic Mulegé.  This quaint little city got its start with the establishment of Mission Santa Rosalia de Mulegé in 1705 on the banks of Rio Santa Rosalia.  The combination of the river and many nearby springs make this a lush oasis in the middle of the desert.  Water is plentiful and the date palms flourish.  A prison once operated at Mulegé.  With the surrounding desert making escape unlikely, most prisoners were allowed to work in town during the day and return to the prison at night.

View of the river running through Mulegé from the back of a pickup truck
It was a real treat to get to see Mulegé and replenish our supply of groceries and beer.  Trisha and I were grateful for the ride and the tour.  Thanks Geary and Sonya!

Monday, July 8, 2013

Update from the Central Sea of Cortez (Trisha's Blog)

Derrick and I are currently anchored at Playa Santa Barbara in Bahia Conception. Bahia Conception is a huge bay just south of the city of Mulege and is known for being very hot this time of year. We came here to attend Gary the weatherman's annual Fourth of July party. Each morning Gary provides us with a weather forecast on the radio. He is very much loved by the cruising fleet. There were about thirty boats anchored around Gary's home in El Burro Cove. We had a great time meeting people, drinking Pacifico Beer, and eating Gary's hotdogs. The day concluded with an impressive fireworks show thanks to Dan on Dazzler who provided most of the fireworks. Pitt from Karmaseas finished with his " fire twirling, fire eating, fire breathing" show, which is great entertainment - thanks Pitt!

We came to this area a little sooner than we had planned so now must hang around before continuing north. This place is quite hot but the scenery, the fishing, and the clamming are great. Derrick has bagged seventeen fish with the spear gun in our first month out and nearly came home with an octopus yesterday (ink was flying). We've received instructions from Mel on Sonrisa, a Tasmanian chef, on how to prepare octopus so we are hoping another opportunity arises.

You may have seen Hurricane/Tropical Storm Eric in the news. As we are well up the Baja Pennisula, Eric is hundreds of miles to the south. Our location is seeing clouds and some high winds spinning off from Eric, but we are tucked away safe and sound in a very well protected anchorage. We are thankful to Eric for the breeze and hoping for some rain.

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